Archive for April, 2009

Apr
17

How To Change Your Engine Oil

Posted by: Jeff Williams | Comments (1)

Changing your vehicles oil every 3 months or every 3,000 miles is a must for anyone who owns a car, truck , minivan or SUV. With these simple guidelines you can save yourself some cash by doing it yourself .

I recommend everyone should become familiar with there own vehicle by changing the oil and checking the air filter and giving the engine a look over for potential problems.

When changing oil on any vehicle, the hardest part is getting under it or trying to get the vehicle up high enough to get to the drain plug and filter. Some vehicles have the oil filter located on the back side of the engine by the fire wall and this makes changing it a little challenging but once you figure out where it is, all you have to do is get to it.  Sometimes easier said then done.

If you plan on jacking the vehicle up, I would recommend a good floor jack along with some solid jack stands . Remember you get what you pay for and the last thing you need is 2,000 lbs of steel falling on top of you because you tried to save a couple of dollars.

Its always a good idea to have another person helping you just in case you need help with something. In my shop, I always have Whiskers help me whenever Iam working on something. He’s a great helper and he works real cheap too.

Once you get the vehicle secured on the jack stands, the first thing you will want to do is locate the drain plug. Its always on the bottom of the oil pan. Make sure the socket you are using is the right one for the plug. I have seen many a drain plug rounded off because someone thought that the socket was good enough or they would use a pair of pliers to do the job. Remember to always use the right tool for the job. It will save you time and money

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Remove the drain plug and allow all of the oil to drain out into a drip pan. You can pick one up at any parts house. On a side note, its better to drain the oil when the engine is warm but be careful not to get that oil on you, it can be hot enough to burn your skin.

After the oil is drain out, clean off the drain plug and check for any damaged threads or pieces of metal stuck on the magnet . If the threads looked like someone tried to put the plug in wrong, then you should replace the plug instead of trying to force it back in. If the threads in the oil pan look ok then just replace the plug but if they look damaged as well , then you will need to have them re-threaded.

If this is beyond your ability, then you will have to put the old plug back in and refill the oil into the engine so you can get your vehicle to a qualified mechanic so he can do the job right. Dont forget to ask for the old drain plug and make sure the new one is not a rubber plug.

After you get the drain plug back in, tighten it down snug but dont try to over torgue it or you will strip the threads out of the oil pan.

Next locate the oil filter and


remove it by turning counter clockwise. Now keep in mind that the engine is warm and that filter is full of warm oil as well sometimes hot , so use gloves or a shop rag when trying to turn it by hand. Dont forget to have your drip pan ready to catch  all the oil that is left in the filter . It can sometimes be a mess.

Next use a clean shop rag to clean of the surface where the oil filter was and make sure the old rubber seal isn’t still stuck there.

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After that get the new oil filter ready by first checking to see if its the right one for your vehicle and by coating the rubber seal with oil first before you install it. This will create a better seal

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Next thread the new oil filter on by turning it clockwise until it tightens up . You dont want to over tighten it, just snug it down until it feels tight by hand. While your under the vehicle, now is a good time to look around and inspect everything

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Look for oil leaks or possible damage to the under side of the vehicle including the oil pan and transmission pan. Look at your CV boots to see if they are torn and leaking. How about engine coolant. See any green fluid leaking from the hoses or water pump. Its better if you notice these things early on before they cause you real problems.

Now if both drain plug and oil filter are tight , you can lower the vehicle back down. You can do the rest from on top of the engine.

Look inside the engine compartment for a  round cap that says engine oil. This is where you will be pouring the oil in. Most engines will have the Viscosity or oil thickness marked on the cap for you and most of the time it will be 5w30  weight oil but you can use 10w30 without any problems. If you have questions about what oil to use, then please consult your owners manual or after market repair manual.

Now at this point you have a few choices to make as far as what type of oil you want to use . Some like Synthetic while others are happy with conventional oil and then there is the brand of oil that is best for you.

Most of this is a matter of preference, but after 20 years of changing oil I can give you my opinion on the subject.

For everyday oil changes on domestic cars, I like Valvoline oil. On foreign cars I like to use Castrol oil. Both conventional oils or what most people call regular oil.

Now if you can afford it and really love you vehicle, I like to use Mobil 1 Synthetic and for racing applications I like Royal Purple.

So, there you have it and Iam sure there is a lot of debate over that one, but thats my opinion.

Now, place a funnel in the filler hole and pour your oil in. Now the rule of thumb in most cases is 1 quart of oil for every cylinder ( i.e. a v8 engine would get 8 quarts of oil ) but once again consult your owners manual especially if you own an import.

If you have a V8 like we do in the photo, then put in 7 qts and check the dipstick to see what the level is. The dip stick should have a yellow handle that says engine oil, but some later models dont have this, so make sure its engine oil and not the transmission dipstick .

If the level is below the safe area, then go ahead and  put the last quart in . After you put the last quart in then put the dipstick back in and screw the oil filler cap back on. After this then start the engine and let it run for about 10 seconds, then shut the engine off and check the level again.

The oil level should be close to the top of the safe area. If the oil level is to high, then you will need to drain some of the oil out because too much oil is as bad as not having enough oil in the oil pan.

The reason we ran the engine was to fill the oil filter up with oil so we could get a more accurate reading on our dip stick. Remove any tools and close the hood.

If you have any questions or if you see something that you need help with,  just leave me a comment by clicking on the contact us tab and I will get you a response.

I hope I took some of the mystery out of an oil change for you. Until next time, this is Jeff Williams saying    ” Thanks for stopping by ” and if this has been helpful to you then please click on the coffee cup icon .  Thanks   Jeff


If you like this post, buy me a cup of coffee.

Comments (1)

The first thing you should do is disconnect the negative battery cable, but make sure you have the security codes for your radio first because it may have a coded anti theft circuit. If you cant find the codes, try using a code saver that you buy at any parts house.

This procedure should be done with the engine cold.

Rotate the crank shaft counter clock wise with a 17mm socket until you see the white timing notch on the Crankshaft pulley line up with the mark on the timing belt cover. It will look like a gun site. You want the engine at TDC or Top Dead Center on the compression stroke position.

Next remove the Spark Plug Boots with wires out of the Valve cover,one at a time . Dont worry about  mixing up the firing order since the wires will only reach there selected spark plug hole.  They should look like the photo above.

Next remove the Valve cover retaining bolts ( 5 of them ) and the small intake breather hose on the back left of the cover. Then lift the valve cover off of the cylinder head and place it to the side upside down. Now would be a good time to check for any oil leaks that you may have due to a worn Valve cover gasket. If so then replace the rubber gasket with an OEM ( Original Equipment Manufacturer )on.

Your Valve train assembly should look like the photo above. Next remove the timing belt cover. Its held in place with two 10 mm bolts. You want to remove this for two reasons. First this way you can tell if your set at the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. Next this will give you a chance to inspect the timing belt .

Look at the front of the camshaft pulley. You should see the word  ” UP “ on the front of the sprocket . If its upside down, then rotate the crankshaft pulley counter clockwise until is right side up.

Now you can begin adjusting the first set of valves. You will need a feeler gauge to do this so if you don’t have one get one now. You will also need a small flat head screw driver and a 10mm wrench.

Make sure you have the proper adjustment specs for your Honda. They are located on the underside of the hood right under the word Catalyst. If you can’t find it check your owners manual or you might have to buy an after market repair manual. Chiltons and Haynes are a few good ones.

On our 2000 Honda Civic the spec for the  Intake is -  .20 mm and for the Exhaust its -  .25 mm . Remember your working with mm not inches so use the right number on your feeler guage.

With the cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke, check the valve clearance at the valve stem on the Number one cylinder intake valves. Slide your feel gauge between between the valve stem and rocker arm and feel for a slight drag on your feeler gauge. If it slides through easily or cannot be inserted at all then loosen the the lock-nut and turn the adjusting screw with a screw driver until the feeler gauge slides through with a little drag like the photo below

When you get it set were you want it, then hold the adjusting screw and tighten the locking-nut. Check it again to make sure the adjusting screw didnt turn on you. Thats one. Remember there are at least two valves for the intake side of a single cylinder and the same applies for the exhaust .

With the engine set at the compression stroke you can adjust the intake and exhaust valves for for the # 1 cylinder.  Next move to the # 2 cylinder intake valves and the # 3 cylinder exhaust valves.

Once you have done this, rotate the crankshaft pulley one revolution until the camshaft pulley has the word mark    ” UP  ” sitting up side down. Now you can move on to the remaining valves

This would be # 3 cylinder intake valves and the # 2 cylinder exhaust valves and of course both intake and exhaust of the # 4 cylinder valves.

Once your done make sure the locking nut is tight on all of the valves and that no tools are left in the valve assembly.

Now put everything back as you have removed it and reconnect the negative battery cable. Make sure that all tools are removed before you start it up. If you did it right it should sound very quite. If you still have a lifter clatter, then go back and check them again. If you still have a clatter then you may have an issue with your valve train and you should have it inspected by a qualified mechanic.

If you get stuck and need some help then Blog me your question and I will try to answer it . But remember to consult your repair manual first. They are a must when trying to do it yourself.

Until next time, this is Jeff Williams saying Thanks for stopping by and check out my latest release  on DVD from Video Car Tech. Its everything for Honda Civic owners who want to do there own Brakes. I guarantee you are gonna save money with this DVD and its fun to watch , I just know your gonna like it and remember that if this site has been helpful to you then please click on the coffee cup icon below to help us keep tthis site running. Thanks. Jeff

If you like this post, buy me a cup of coffee.

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