CV Axles-Description and Replacement Info
ByFor More Videos, Click Here and Watch ; www.youtube.com/user/ghosttownhunter#p/u
www.nevadasghosttowns.com/
For most of you that have worked on a front wheel vehicle the image you see below is nothing new, but for the people out there that have never seen one of these things before, it is called a CV ( Constant Velocity ) axle or more commonly known as a Half Shaft.
Please visit our Sister site at; www.ardysslife.com/BodyMagic2Step.aspx

A CV joint or constant velocity joint is a type of mechanisms that connects two fixed rotating shafts. This joint allows the shafts to be connected while axis's pivots change, for example when suspension or steering operation occurs. CV joints are widely used in front-wheel and rear wheel drive cars.

CV joints can deliver torque more evenly then conventional "U" joints. The CV joint is used because of its ability to transmit more even torque throughout a particular flex range. A CV joint can also deliver power on a wider range of angles then "U" joints which makes them more desirable then its older counterpart.
The CV joint is virtually non-serviceable unless the boot ruptures or extreme conditions exist, like high mileage or abuse. When the CV joint fails simply replace it with a new unit.

A CV Half Shaft is composed of four basic pieces. They are the inner joint or inboard shaft , the outer joint or outboard shaft, the axle and the axle nut. Both inner and outer joints have a protective rubber boot on them that can sometimes tear, which is why most half shaft fail in the first place.

If you were to open the inner and outer joints up, chances are they would look like this on the inside. There are those who like to rebuild the joints and replace the boots but due to economical reasons, I prefer to replace them.
For those of you that are curious as to why I say that, I have a few illustrations below that give you the very basics of Boot Replacement.

The Boot itself is very inexpensive but when it fails the entire half shaft is prone to fail as well. The job of the Boot is protect the bearing assembly inside from the outside elements while holding in life giving grease.

The Boot closest to the wheel is always prone to tear or split first due to them experiencing the most movement.Once the boot tears or splits, grease is thrown out of the joint by centrifugal force while driving. Without grease to keep the joint lubricated and cooler, its life is drastically reduced.
If you own a front wheel drive vehicle, look under it and check out your boots for signs of tearing . It should be easy to spot. If so, then its only a matter of time before the fail. Once they fail, your vehicle will no longer move in any direction.
The most common sign that your CV joints are about to fail is by the clicking sound they make when you make a turn. You only have a short while before you the bearing fail and the shaft is no longer connected to the outboard joint.
Removing the Half Shaft Assembly :
The job of removing the Half shaft on most cars is pretty much the same on all cars. Below is a quick list of how to do it, but please consult your repair manual for a more complete guide to replacing your own half shaft.
1. Remove the front wheels
2.Remove the big nut that holds the joint to the wheel hub. ( You may have to replace it with a new one on some models )
3.The steering knuckle ( Thats where the brake hardware bolt to ) must either be loosened at the strut mount or at the lower ball joint to allow the shaft to slip out of the hub assembly. You choose which one is easier.
4.The inner or inboard joint will be held into the transmission by either bolts or by a retaing clip called a circlip. ( Refer the the illustration above)
5. If you see no bolts then you will have to pry the half shaft out the transmission due to the cir clip holding it in there. Be careful not to damage the transmission while doing this. Try using a slide hammer with a CV joint puller attached ot the other end. It works pretty good.
6. Install the new shaft in the reverse. Grease the splines ( Grooves on the shaft with the large nut ) and lubricate the seal in the transmission first. I would replace the seal if you are this far into it, its easier with the shaft out.
7. Use new hardware like cotter pins and axle nuts. Torque the axle nut to spec with the vehicle on the ground. You can find the Torque Spec to the axle nut or CV joint bolts in any Haynes or Chilton Manual .
If you don't have a manual you can log onto www. alldata.com and for a subscription fee you can have all of your vehicles info for one year.
Well that's about it. I hope this has answered a few questions for you on CV Half Shaft and hopefully taken the mystery out of how they work. If you like this article then please send it to a friend and let them know about us or if you have a question, then please leave me a comment by clicking on the contact tab at the top of the page.
Until next time, this is Jeff Williams saying " Thanks for stopping by " and if this article has been helpful to you then please click on the coffee cup icon and help keep this site running. Thanks. Jeff

16 Comments
June 8th, 2009 at 11:26 am
[...] CV Half Shaft Axles common car problems car service manuals Posted by root 17 minutes ago (http://www.askjeffwilliams.com) The most common sign that your cv joints are about to fail is by the clicking sound they make then please leave me a comment by clicking on the contact tab at the top of the page flexx theme by ithemes powered by wordpress Discuss | Bury | News | CV Half Shaft Axles common car problems car service manuals [...]
April 12th, 2010 at 10:03 pm
replaced axels in 97 dodge advenger and i have a transmission leaking what to do replaced inner seal but still leaks.
April 12th, 2010 at 10:07 pm
how many seals are there in replacing shaft in 97 dodge advenger.
April 14th, 2010 at 9:39 am
Hi Mike, There should be two seals for both inbound CV joints. One on each side of the transmission. If you still have leaks, then there is an issue with the shafts. Check to see if they are Re-man shafts. Sometimes there is a groove in them from the previous transmission. That’s why you should go new on them. Jeff
September 7th, 2010 at 10:12 pm
Hi Jeff-
Working on a 2006 Toyota Sienna. Owner reports feeling a vibration,not transmitted through steering wheel. Noticed right half shaft has play in it. Any special procedures removing from transmission?
September 21st, 2010 at 11:14 am
Jeff,
6 weeks ago I had a “Speedy Trasmission” rebuild my transmission, now 6 weeks later my CV axle is totally ruptured. A neighborhood mechanic said it fell out of the transmission, but Speedy says its in now way related. Who is correct?
October 8th, 2010 at 7:35 am
jeff,
i have a 1990 acura integra ls with a jdm engine swap and im haveing some issues.when i got this car the driver cv axle was busted the tripod bearing came out of the inner boot and since i have had this car i have replaced motor mount on the driver side and the cv axle for the third time in the span of 3 weeks and still have the same issue with the cv axle and i cant figure out why it seems like the axle is too short.Is this a common issue with this type of project and how can i correct it
February 12th, 2011 at 11:38 am
not bad!!! thanks!
September 9th, 2011 at 12:04 am
Outstanding post! I would like to express gratitude just for this wonderful properly needed post. I’ll always be visiting
this site in future as well. I hope I\’m able to examine such great post throughout not too distant future
September 9th, 2011 at 6:25 am
Hi Josh, Thanks for the Great Comments. Jeff
October 7th, 2011 at 10:10 am
It’s good to see sites with quality information and thanks for the share that you’ve done. Usually, I’m quite surprised, but this material really has grabbed my attention.
October 11th, 2011 at 6:15 am
Thanks. Jeff
October 28th, 2011 at 2:39 pm
I just had a 1993 Eagle talon worked on. They replaced clutch assembly and cv axles. After driving for 5 days the car wasn;t going anywhere. Mechanic tells me that the piece that goes into transmission on CV axle broke off into transmission. Says it was caused by rough driving. Which I drove it gingerly after having work doen. I think the poart was defective and they need to investigate. I should nmot be liable for this.
October 31st, 2011 at 6:28 am
Hi Jill, I dont think you could have driven your car hard enough to break off the inbound CV shaft inside the transmission. The shop that did the repairs should at least give you a 90 day warranty. If you can get a second opinion to see if they are telling you the truth. If the original shop continues to blame you for the damage then inform them that you will take them to court for it . You must have proof that it was due to there negligence . Jeff
November 16th, 2011 at 8:48 pm
$author Just checking out your blog. Looks Good!
November 17th, 2011 at 7:17 am
Hi Joe. Thanks for the great comments. Jeff